Thursday, June 25, 2015
Robotic armageddon and survivalism
Robotic Armageddon - we all know the scenario from science fiction stories like 'Terminator', 'I Robot', '2001 Space Odyssey', the 2012 version of 'Total Recall', 'The Matrix', ... Artificial intelligence is created and is used to enslave people or decides by it's own volition to kill all humans, or otherwise turns against us. Like a bomb, a robots function and purpose is clear and definitive. Their very existence defines their purpose. As a bomb is defined by it's single function, the failure of it to perform as it is designed redefines its existence. An unexploded or defused bomb is simply not a bomb, A bomb is it's explosion and the explosion is the bomb. Until the first decade of the 22nd century robotic warfare was purely science fiction. Then beginning sometime during the American invasion of the middle east, robotic artificial intelligence was unleashed as war machines against humanity. These robots called drones are constructed more like planes, gliders and remote controlled helicopters, and not humanoid in physical construction. They are still the beginning stages of full robotic warfare. Essentially, the threat from robots is one found only in the realm of monsters. An inhuman, unfeeling, unsympathetic, unreasonable, nonnegotiable, machine. A machine who's sole purpose is the destruction of mankind. Robots cannot be bought, they cannot be bribed, bargained with, negotiated with, or compromised with. However, they can be reprogrammed or destroyed. The vulnerabilities to such technologies are both obvious and daunting. Sabotage, Physical destruction, Hacking, robots under opposition control, and E.M.P 'weapons' which are incorrectly called "weapons", because weapons are used against humans and not machines. And an E.M.P. is completely harmless to humans and only affects electronic systems. I will only discuss the first two options for defense against robots.
How to kill a robot - Most machines use components of more basic designs. Gears, pulleys, hydraulics, leavers, cams, batteries, capacitors, motors, software, software processors, sensory systems, communication systems... any of these things can malfunction under the wrong conditions. Failures in any systems can occur because of fluctuations in temperature, humidity, voltage, external pressures, internal pressures, lubrication issues, programming errors, oxidation of components, mechanical wear and erosion...
continue later...
Tuesday, June 23, 2015
Why I want to hang with Chris Hackett
Have you ever wanted to make your own crossbow? Do you know how make a welding rig from old car batteries? Have you ever tried to build a man powered bicycle generator? Well Chris Hackett does this sort of stuff. He's an artist, a hacker, and fabricator. His projects are built from junk. He's the sort of guy who looks at a junkyard and sees a goldmine.
I first learned of this man after reading a facebook post about his junkyard crossbow. I followed the links and came to his Popular Science entry and video about making the crossbow. This video inspired me to search out more of his projects. I soon discovered a pneumatic battery gun and a video about a metal forge. I even found a video where he dumpster dives food. Something that some people (not myself) find horrifying.
By picking the bones of discarded household appliances, he scavenges pipes, sheets of metal, and even functioning motors for his creations. Scoffing at safety precautions and sometimes common sense itself, Some of his projects are of the 'because I can' sort of thinking. For example, he builds a four barreled potato gun in order to shred potatoes into fries. He even goes so far as to use thermite for cooking, or burning rather, hamburger. Although borderline fanciful, his essential message is that we can find everything we need if only we are resourceful enough. His outside-the-box style of thinking is exactly what our society needs and thrives on.
Hackett seems perfectly at home in the junkyard wearing the same dirty black pants and shirt every day. Hackett is the sort of person who would thrive in situations where most would suffer. In fact he mentions these projects in terms of post-apocalyptic survival.
I would like to see his opinions on essential tools. That is, as any woodsman worth his salt can create whatever he needs with only an ax. A fabricator such as Hackett seems to require a few more specialized tools. I'd like to hear his opinions on just this. Maybe Sometime I'll get to ask him myself.
Meditation as a survival skill
This may sound funny to many but
meditation is a very useful survival skill.
I know of a man who was on a very long hike, when about twenty miles into the wilds he began to have a heart attack. He was an accomplished meditator and was able to slow his heart rate and control his blood pressure enough to hike back to civilization and seek medical attention. Most people would have just died. Different meditation techniques can provide you with subtle abilities that may prove invaluable.
Admittedly, his example is rather uncommon, the ability to clearly focus in a stressful situation is paramount to survival. The first rule of survival according to many including Douglas Adams is "DON'T PANIC." In fact, this simple rule in all its synonyms is the first rule of all survival lessons. Meditation is a means to not panic. but it is also a means to many other ends.
It has been demonstrated and proven that some people can withstand severe and traumatic pain through meditation alone. Some people have even had major surgeries with no anesthetics using only meditation. Personally I believe an ability to wait calmly and alertly without moving for very long periods has survival benefits that have not been mentioned in any of the popular survival shows, websites, and magazines. Basically, when sitting still in a focused state of mind one breathes slower, the heart rate slows and all metabolic functions are dampened, and when sitting, as opposed to walking, hiking, working, hunting, ect... one uses much less energy and water, effectively extending rations.
When one regularly meditates and develops the practice sufficiently, sleep becomes slightly less important. The reason changes in sleep occur are still mostly unknown, but the current theory on sleep says, we need a long period of down time to process new stimuli and 'delete' redundant information and enhance memory of newer stimuli. But when one spends more time in meditation there is much less 'new' information to process and 'delete'. Having less information to process means less sleep is required. This is something that all experienced meditators will confirm, the more they meditate, the less sleep they need. But this effect does seem to plateau so one will still require some sleep.
Meditation as a survival skill is something that should be included in all survival training. A basic principle of survival is the decision to sit and wait. For example, if your car breaks down on a long desert highway. It's probably more wise to wait for another traveler than to walk for miles in the sun. Depending on the time of year one may have to wait for hours or maybe a day or two. Regardless of the actual time, waiting is almost always the best decision. But you may break down far from any road and traveling on food becomes necessary. Here the wisdom of traveling at night and resting during the day will save you. Waiting in any possible shade, meditation could help stave off a sense of desperation, fear and hopelessness, and conserve water and energy.
The basic ability to sit calmly and wait for long periods of time is something that our culture takes no value in, that is, until we have to baby sit or teach a class full of children, or sit in a car for hours on end. Here it becomes paramount to the survival of an annoying child and a less than patient parent. Teaching children to meditate has been shown to correlate to successes later in life and gives them skills to handle frustration and difficult tasks. And by keeping them calm may save them from a parent pulling the car over for a bit of "physical education."
In combination, the effects of meditation allow for better chances of survival. Water, ration and energy conservation, alertness and (negligible) less time sleeping, pain management, and simply remaining calm can enhance ones chances of getting out alive and unscathed by trauma.
I know of a man who was on a very long hike, when about twenty miles into the wilds he began to have a heart attack. He was an accomplished meditator and was able to slow his heart rate and control his blood pressure enough to hike back to civilization and seek medical attention. Most people would have just died. Different meditation techniques can provide you with subtle abilities that may prove invaluable.
Admittedly, his example is rather uncommon, the ability to clearly focus in a stressful situation is paramount to survival. The first rule of survival according to many including Douglas Adams is "DON'T PANIC." In fact, this simple rule in all its synonyms is the first rule of all survival lessons. Meditation is a means to not panic. but it is also a means to many other ends.
It has been demonstrated and proven that some people can withstand severe and traumatic pain through meditation alone. Some people have even had major surgeries with no anesthetics using only meditation. Personally I believe an ability to wait calmly and alertly without moving for very long periods has survival benefits that have not been mentioned in any of the popular survival shows, websites, and magazines. Basically, when sitting still in a focused state of mind one breathes slower, the heart rate slows and all metabolic functions are dampened, and when sitting, as opposed to walking, hiking, working, hunting, ect... one uses much less energy and water, effectively extending rations.
When one regularly meditates and develops the practice sufficiently, sleep becomes slightly less important. The reason changes in sleep occur are still mostly unknown, but the current theory on sleep says, we need a long period of down time to process new stimuli and 'delete' redundant information and enhance memory of newer stimuli. But when one spends more time in meditation there is much less 'new' information to process and 'delete'. Having less information to process means less sleep is required. This is something that all experienced meditators will confirm, the more they meditate, the less sleep they need. But this effect does seem to plateau so one will still require some sleep.
Meditation as a survival skill is something that should be included in all survival training. A basic principle of survival is the decision to sit and wait. For example, if your car breaks down on a long desert highway. It's probably more wise to wait for another traveler than to walk for miles in the sun. Depending on the time of year one may have to wait for hours or maybe a day or two. Regardless of the actual time, waiting is almost always the best decision. But you may break down far from any road and traveling on food becomes necessary. Here the wisdom of traveling at night and resting during the day will save you. Waiting in any possible shade, meditation could help stave off a sense of desperation, fear and hopelessness, and conserve water and energy.
The basic ability to sit calmly and wait for long periods of time is something that our culture takes no value in, that is, until we have to baby sit or teach a class full of children, or sit in a car for hours on end. Here it becomes paramount to the survival of an annoying child and a less than patient parent. Teaching children to meditate has been shown to correlate to successes later in life and gives them skills to handle frustration and difficult tasks. And by keeping them calm may save them from a parent pulling the car over for a bit of "physical education."
In combination, the effects of meditation allow for better chances of survival. Water, ration and energy conservation, alertness and (negligible) less time sleeping, pain management, and simply remaining calm can enhance ones chances of getting out alive and unscathed by trauma.
bug-in/bug-out stock and store
This list is a combination of home stores and backpacking equipment that I think all survival minded people will find useful. Many Items listed are clearly meant for backpacking (bug-out) while other items are meant to be kept at home (bug-in) or in a vehicle (bug-out-vehicle). Many of these items listed warrant their own entries and will be expanded on later.
Buckets with lids - Clean five gallon buckets should always be available for your use. If a warning comes that water will be unavailable you can fill them and store them until the emergency is over. They are about as large as a single person can comfortably carry regardless of what is stored in them. I use many to keep a dry food storage system as well as seed storage and general organization.
Buckets with lids - Clean five gallon buckets should always be available for your use. If a warning comes that water will be unavailable you can fill them and store them until the emergency is over. They are about as large as a single person can comfortably carry regardless of what is stored in them. I use many to keep a dry food storage system as well as seed storage and general organization.
Bleach - This should be on everybody's 'Duh!' list but rarely makes it. The main purpose of Bleach in a Bug-Out bag is water sterilization. A few drops in some water, recommended 8 drops per gallon, one can effectively kill protozoa, bacteria, and viruses commonly found in water. Because only a little is needed I use an old pint bottle of rubbing alcohol to store it. Clearly marked with a blue sharpy to signify that it is NOT alcohol nor water. I carry a small 2oz screw cap nalgene bottle.
Candles - some people tend to have a few candles
around the house used mostly for dinner parties or the cliché romantic night
with a significant other. Then the power goes out because some drunkard crashed
his car into a power line and suddenly a candle is more than romantic. The
great thing about candles is they require no fuel, they ARE fuel. They provide
light with no batteries needed. And a flame is an awfully pleasant glow. They
last forever being forgotten and tucked away for just such an occasion. Every
Household should have a stock of candles. Candles are cheap and abundant and
can be purchased in bulk and used for barter. I spent about $25 at a dollar
store on 6-packs of 'emergency' candles. These are simple paraffin wax candles
that come in packs of six each pack sold for one dollar. I also bought many
"Jesus" candles in plain glass with no Jesus or mother marry pictures
on them. Jesus candles are great, if they are tipped over they will not start a
fire because the flame is concealed by the glass and the flame will just go
out. You can buy these at a 1$ store, but they are sold in singles.
All Weather Space Blankets - NOT those cheap flimsy mylar space
blankets sold for $1 at all the army surplus stores, But a real heavy duty
'Rip-stop' nylon space blanket. They usually cost between $15 and $25 and can
be found on-line but less common in stores. I recommend two as I use one for a
heat reflecting groundsheet and one for a blanket. Should have at least two,
and one for each person.
Small Folding Shovel - These are sometimes called trenching
shovels. Can be used for more than just digging, however, waste disposal is not
only polite but necessary to maintain health and hygiene. Being able to
effectively dig a trench or a root cellar or a foxhole can be the difference
between freezing to death, starving to death or losing superior ground. These
can also be used as weapons and a substitute for a hatchet. There are many
cheap Chinese made folding shovels mass produced at the lowest quality. I
bought one once that crumbled like foil when I tried to use it. Tools like
shovels should always be of some measure of quality because any failure in the
material in dire straits will make the job that much more difficult and
frustrating and only add to a stressful situation.
Large polymer handled Spade Shovel - A good shovel is a must.
Large polymer handled Spade Shovel - A good shovel is a must.
Leather Work Gloves - These are very important and another
item that should be on the 'Duh!' list. Rarely however do I see these included
on lists... as anybody who has been in any number of survival situations knows,
you must expect the unexpected. Often times a little hard work is necessary and
that hard work can tear up your hands, leaving you with splinters, cuts, gouges
or broken finger nails. All are painful and potentially leading to greater
problems. Just like shoes for your feet, you need gloves for your hands. Simply
put, protecting your hands is very important!!! These are also a great item to
keep for barter. If work gloves become unavailable because they are not being
manufactured or shipped they will quickly become very valuable especially since
they are hard to make or improvise.
Lip Balm - This is an item I consider
'every-day-carry'. It protects your lips from desiccating thus helping to
prevent dehydration and the irritation of dry and cracked lips. It protects
your lips from UV radiation. It can be used as a candle or lubricant and can
serve as a minor salve for skin problems. Everybody should have their own and a
few extra for barter. This is the sort of thing that may go overlooked until
you already have a dried and peeling sore lip. One of the little tricks I've
learned is to use lip balm on sticky zippers.
Multi-Tool - The classic leather-man multi-tool has
been a proven item for years, but you do not have to stick with a leather-man.
However, any model chosen should include pliers, wire cutters, wire stripper,
bit drivers, large flat head screw driver, Phillips screw driver, saw, blade,
can opener, wood/metal file. Some models have loads of extra features such as
wood chisel, scissors, cork screws, etc. I keep a 'Skeletool' and a basic
leather-man.
550 Paracord - military specification paracord is very
strong, rated to hold 550 pounds with one strand. It can stretch by about 30%
before it begins to break, it's very thin and lightweight. In the last decade
it has become wildly abundant both online and in many stores and sells in a
wide range of colors. You can buy 100' lengths for $5 - $10, or 300' lengths
for $20 - $25, or even 1,000' spools for $40 - $60. The prices vary by color
and supplier. I keep three 100' lengths, one high visibility orange and one
high visibility green and one black. I also keep two ten foot lengths in by
boots as laces. The uses are numerous! sutures, lashing, repelling,
tourniquets, leash, netting, snares, any general rope uses.... And it can be
used for barter. As a side note, I've always wondered why nobody in zombie
movies will ever set up trip lines. It seems to me that any sort of zombie from
the rabid psycho ones in '28 Days Later' to the slow stiff ones of 'Night Of
The Living Dead' would have a hard time chasing anybody through a course of
trip lines. So just a thought for zombie freaks, use paracord for trip lines.
Tie them to a height slightly below the knee, sit back and watch the hoards
fall flat on their faces.
Bank Line - A very strong tar coated thread, it comes in many variants in strength and various lengths. Since I purchased a roll of size 36 (rated for 110lbs), I have replaced much of the paracord I kept in my pack.
Bank Line - A very strong tar coated thread, it comes in many variants in strength and various lengths. Since I purchased a roll of size 36 (rated for 110lbs), I have replaced much of the paracord I kept in my pack.
Sierra Zip Stove - I love this little stove. Ordered one a
few years ago and have used it ever since. This stove if a self contained
furnace. Just add some flammable fuel like wood, twigs, bark, or horse manure
and bam! You're ready to cook. The beauty of this stove is that it is a high
power fire stove that requires no fuel canister. If you can make a fire, you
can keep it contained and use it for cooking. The one and only downside to this
stove is that some places have very little available material to burn and if
it's been raining recently everything could be damp. But the benefit to
using this stove is that bottle of propane and other sorts of fuel may be very
hard to find and demand will skyrocket in a situation wherever they are the
main source of fuel. The standard model is steel but I'm upgrading to the much
lighter titanium set which are very hard models to find. There are a ton of
accessories and customer service is very good. To order one visit www.zzstove.
Jet-Boil with fuel - Probably the fourth essential item for backpacking gear. The Jet-Boil is a simple and efficient little stove about the size of a one liter nalgine bottle. It is designed purely to boil water. These units are worth every penny and I highly recommend them to everyone interested in backpacking or survival. I have only three complaints about these stoves. First, the igniter button is so unreliable I never bother to use it and light it with a highly reliable Bic disposable lighter instead. Second, the screw on housing for the fuel canister and control valve is made of plastic. I would have made it out of metal. And third, it needs a pour spout pressed into the lip of the rim. One feature that initially sold me the Jet-Boil is the optional coffee press. Minor complaints aside, after using mine on many backpacking trips I've added it to the 'essential gear' that I always keep in my pack.
Titanium Kettle - Any kettle will do. The purpose is
obvious, hot water. The kettle I use is titanium mainly for weight and because
the model I have has an opening large enough for me to store many different
items in when not being used and I can put my hands in side to organize or
remove items for storage. When I'm camping I'll boil a kettle of water and drop
in a bit of soap to make a really nice mix of soapy hot water then use this to
clean my whole body. Everybody who has not seen this done is surprised at the
speed and pleasantness of a good scrub after a day or two in the trail dirt and
mud. I also do this to wash my laundry on the trail and simply wring out
the water.
Swiss Army knife - Just a great little multi-tool. I try my
best to keep mine in pristine condition just for the sake of its usefulness.
Duct Tape - I believe there is a book dedicated to
the uses of duct tape, but I'm unable to find it... oh well. This stuff was
supposedly invented by the U.S. army to help with various commonplace problems.
Broken hoses in engines, holes in bags, cloth, shoes, it even has first aid
applications. I do not keep an entire roll as it is too large and bulky to stow
easily. Instead I roll about ten feet onto an old plastic gift card or hotel
key card to keep it as flat as possible. I also keep a few feet wrapped around
the handle of a box cutter.
Aluminum Foil/ Aluminum pans - Foil has a million uses, from cooking
and preserving food to thermal insulation in your shoes. I keep a standard
sized sheet about five feet long neatly folded into an Altoids tin (which could
be used as a stove). I also keep a small foil bread pan folded into as small a
space as possible.
Hand warmers - This is obvious to anybody who has tried
to start a fire in freezing temperatures. When your hands become too cold you
lose dexterity and all ability to use them. This is more than numb fingers,
it's slow stiff muscles and loss of strength. Having a few packs of hand
warmers can save your life. Also, hand warmers work through a ferro-oxidation,
creating rust. This only works in the presents of O2. So, if you are in trouble
and need to conserve your hand warmers you can reseal them in an air tight zip
lock style bag and squeeze out all the air. It will use up the O2 in the bag
and then stop oxidizing until more O2 is available. This only works for a very
short time.
MSR dromedary H2O bags - I two six liter bags and one ten liter
bag. Luckily I've never really needed to use all three at a single time. The
best thing about these is that they are collapsible and can be folded down to a
size not much bigger than their caps.
Alok Sacks - These are the best water proof 'zip-loc'
style bags I've found. They come in a variety of sizes and shapes, fitting
anything from a wallet to a hunting rifle. I keep my primary (personal) first
aid kit in one.
Alcohol gel Hand Sanitizer - This falls under the hygiene category
and I sore it in a small 4oz squeeze bottle I got at a hospital and refill it
from the large pint bottles that can be found in any store. As the bottle says
it kills 99.999% of microbes. This is essential for maintaining health in
not-so sanitary conditions. I store the bottle with my T.P. for obvious
reasons. As hand gel hand sanitizers are alcohol based they can be use to start
fires. I once filled a mint tin with it and used this as a lamp.
Iodine solution 4oz bottle - Iodine can be used to treat water as
well as superficial wounds. I have heard that it can be used to help prevent
the body from absorbing the radioactive Iodine isotopes produced from nuclear
explosions and power plant melt downs. The theory is that the body can only
absorb so much iodine nearly all in the thyroid where specific proteins are
synthesized. If the body already has it's needed supply it will not absorb more
(being the radioactive isotopes generated after a nuclear blast). This would
mean it's a proactive preventative measure, which would do no good after the
fact. Generally however most people get their supply of iodine from table salt
that has iodine added to it. But I am unsure of the validity in this, though it
seems plausible. I'll have to do some research.
Mineral Oil 2oz bottle - I use this as a gun oil, a lubricant, a
skin sealant, wood treatment, and if needed a laxative or fire fuel. Some would
say 'gee, gun oil isn't that expensive, why bother using mineral oil?' My
answer is consolidation. I can use it for more than just gun oil, it's very
cheap, and in a serious situation where commodities become rare and rarer,
mineral oil will probably be one of the last things to disappear off the
shelves.
Box Cutter + 1 extra blade - If I only need to open a package of some
sort I don't want to fowl up a good blade, as everybody should know cardboard
will dull a blade in no time. A small box cutter with removable razor is very
small, light and easily concealed. I keep a two foot strip of duct tape wrapped
around mine.
Bandanna/ Schemagh - a simple water filter, wash cloth,
shade, scarf... there are tons of uses with these things. There are even web
pages on the many uses of a bandanna...
Glowsticks - They have a very long shelf life, and
can generate enough light to make a great signal. I like to use them for
reading, but I wouldn't waste one in an emergency situation just to read
something. Sometimes when camping in large parties that are spaced out over an
area larger than a singer camp site, I like to hang one from the tents so
everybody can see where the tent is from a distance. This also helps people
navigate in the dark without getting lost.
Baking soda - This can be used as a foot powder, as
toothpaste, as a scrub for dishes, as deodorant and for insect bites.
Ear Plugs - I'm very serious about protecting my
hearing. I'd rather carry some small foam ear plugs with me everywhere than go
def. When shooting firearms it's very nice. Also there may be other people
doing things around you while you're trying to sleep. I've heard people say
that you "don't use ear plugs in a war." I wholly agree but still I like to
preserve my hearing as much as possible. And in all the time I've spent at
concerts and with firearms I'm proud to say that I'm the least deaf of my
party.
Match Safe, + storm matches - Just another fire redundancy. Water
proof matches are good, but I keep the storm matches and coat them in wax. Storm
matches are made to light in direct wind and stay lit for quite a few seconds.
They are far more expensive than regular matches but well worth the expense to
have fire when it's needed most.
GI can opener (p38) - a very small light can opener. A little
redundant if one has a multi-tool or a Swiss army knife but it helps to keep
both in good condition.
GI nylon Garrison Belt - These belts are very strong and light
weight. They can be used for lashing or just as straps for equipment as well as
a simple belt. They can be rolled up into a very small and compact form.
H2O purifier tablets (sealed bottle) - Duh, water purification redundancy. They
come in a very small bottle and last for a very long time as long as the seal
on the bottle hasn't been broken, after that they have a very short shelf life.
Flashlight/ headlamp - Humans unlike cats and coyotes have very
bad night vision, thus the flashlight. I use a 'pico' light and a petzle head
lamp. The headlamp is my main lighting and the 'pico' is just back up. I also
have a collection of very small LED key-chain button lights spread throughout
my gear and all my kits.
Zip Ties - have a ton of uses, they are very strong
and some in a wide variety of sizes. I know a guy who used one as a tourniquet
after slipping down a slate ravine and cutting his arm on the sharp slate.
Tent - Too many bug-out-bags lack this very
important item. A tent can be the difference between a night of chilly sleeping
or freezing to death. It's good to have a few, my main tent is the Eureka Zeus
2. It's quite small but large enough for my use and can comfortably house two
people with gear stored outside in the vestibule.
Water-less soap - Staying clean is essential. Sometimes
there is not enough water to spend on cleaning, and drinking is far more
important. This is why water-less soap is a great thing to have especially in a
disaster situation or in dry climates.
Katadyn Water filter - more water cleaning redundancy. The best
thing about this filter is that it is quite common, well known and easy to find
replacement filters.
GI Rain Poncho - Rain ponchos are useful if you need to
patrol and scout your area in the rain. However, I do not recommend them for
travelling with a pack and have found that an umbrella works slightly better
when backpacking.
GI rip-stop BDU pants - These are very strong yet thin enough to
not weigh a ton and baggy enough to help generate a nice humid layer between
your legs and the pants allowing for slower evaporation and thus better cooling
in heat. Being 'rip-stop' nylon they are nearly impossible to tear and any hole
that does for will not run and get larger. They are very light weight and
durable. I wear Wrangler brand rip-stop cargo pants. They were recommended by a friend who works as a seasonal fire fighter for the forest service and swears by their durability and strength.
Scrub Bottoms - these are one thing I do not take
hiking, but I do keep in my 'bounce box' for long distance hikes (AT, CDT,
PCT). They can be folded into a zip-lock bag and kept dry and clean for wearing
at night or when doing laundry. I also keep a pair in my bug-out bag and
camping equipment.
I also keep some in my vehicle bag and household emergency box.
Batteries - AA, AAA, C, D, and 9v you should have a
small supply of each type of battery even if your equipment that requires
batteries is all the same sort. (see ground rules). For me batteries are more
barter items as most of my battery powered equipment takes only AAA and I have
a solar charger to reuse them. This means that any 9v or D or other sizes are
up for trade.
Solar Charger (portable) - Solar technology has come a very long way. I've been using a small folding solar charger in my backpacking gear for a few years. When selecting a portable solar charger look for something that can generate the minimum power for your most powerful electronics. As a general rule of thumb, the most powerful one would need to find is one that can generate enough power to use a standard light bulb of 40 watts. But 10 watts is sufficient for most electronics and portable devices. A 10 watt portable solar charger is what I use in my backpacking equipment. Prices vary according to connection options, solar cell quality, materials and construction. You get what you pay for so I recommend choosing high quality over everything else. Brand names are the best option for these devices. A decent 10 watt portable solar charger should cost around $50. For the home, I suggest an allowance for the 40 watt or even the larger and much less portable but still fordable 'suitcase' models capable of generating around 100 watts. The most power hungry device I use at all is an old laptop that asks for 135 watts of power. A solar charger capable of generating this much electricity currently cost between $200 and $500. Unfortunately, solar cells are one of the few technologies that does not get cheaper with size or quantity. Smaller units are the cheapest and they only go up in price proportionately to to the size of the unit. That is, a unit that has a surface area of 10"x10" will cost slightly more that twice as much as one of 5"x5". They are somewhat exponentially more expensive as they increase in size and materials. The reason for this is in the nature of silica wafer production. If one wishes to run machines such as electric hair dryers, microwaves, clothes dryers, blender, coffee percolators, electric hot plates, desktop computers, televisions, entertainment systems... I recommend professional home installation of units capable of generating the required power. Such units may be prohibited by building and zoning codes as well as home owners associations so confirm any possible permissions and legality before installation.
Swedish Flint and Steel - these are very inexpensive and last a
very long time. Made of a ferrocerium alloy they are not affected by water and
have an indefinite shelf life. They produce a spark that is 3,000 degrees
Celsius (5,432 Fahrenheit) hot enough to ignite almost anything flammable. I
keep one on a small chain necklace when I'm camping, hunting, or backpacking.
Umbrella - This may seem oddly placed among
survival gear. But having a good umbrella has proven just as and sometime more
useful than a good poncho. I've found that even when wearing a good poncho I tend
to get we anyway though less so without one. But using an umbrella I've found
that I stay slightly dryer and the connivance of unpacking it, using it, and
packing it away again is much easier than a poncho. It works much like a rain
fly allowing one to take a break in the rain and prepare food or do other
things beneath the umbrella.
Tarps/ Fly - Invaluable, This provides shade and
shields from rain. It extends the 'livable' camp area beyond the tent. I like to keep a very large one in my general camping gear
just to use as a fly over my main camping area. I also keep a 9'x9' kelty fly
in my hiking gear.
Rat Traps - like mouse traps but made for rats, they
are large enough for chipmunks, smaller squirrels and small mammals. I used to
carry a mouse trap and ten feet of snare wire for making traps using the mouse
trap as a trigger and switch. Eventually I watched a video on the web where
someone talked about using rat traps for catching small mammals. So I upgraded
to having two rat traps instead of a mousetrap and snares.
Radio (emergency) - An emergency radio is not something I
consider essential, but it is a very nice luxury that will help you find help
and stay informed of the local situation. The only downside to these is range.
One could be far enough away that so signals make it to your radio. But most
people live in or near large towns and cities and should benefit from emergency
broadcasts. I really like the Eton brand emergency radios. They come with a
dynamo hand crank and rechargeable batteries. The newer ones have a USB port
allowing one to recharge cell phones and other devices using the dynamo crank.
Radio (two way, HAM, C.B. Police scanners) - Communication is essential. Not only is
it a staple of civilization it's key to psychological well being. In a major
power outage cell phone towers may be inoperable as most relay through ground
lines and use the internet and are thus ties to the power grid. Telephone lines
are on their own circuit and are rarely disabled from power outages, but these
may be tied up from emergency calls, panic and general disorder. Phone lines
may also be disabled by authorities to prevent information leaks and contain an
'incident'. All of this means that nobody can make or receive calls in some
situations. This is why radios are so useful. Independent of land-lines and a
power grid one can retain basic communication using radios. Since radio is a
natural phenomenon it seems silly to require a license to use it. Most radio
frequencies are used for AM/FM transmission and are regulated by the FCC.
Guidelines on bandwidth and range are set by them to limit transmissions and
keep people from broadcasting over each others' frequencies and to prevent
different regions from transmitting to each other. Some are reserved for
emergency channels some are designated for non-licensed civilians but most do
require FCC licensing. The difference is which frequencies one uses and how
powerful the transmissions are. Generally anything transmitting over a two mile
radius requires a license. The only downside to using radios is that anybody
can listen in and potentially give out false information. There is also a
military tactic in which all signals are jammed by broadcasting over them with
a high powered nonsense signal effectively drowning out competing signals. With
digital encryption and digital signaling we can in theory broadcast part of a
signal in one band and another part of the signal in some other band then
recombine them into a coherent signal preventing interception. Few civilian
radios can do this, but with a little know-how it is possible. Make sure that
party members know which channels to use, when to check in, when and how to
signal and general radio use. Police scanners can be used to stay informed and
keep an ear on what authorities in the area are up to. Some authorities really
dislike this but the fact is, anybody can listen in on any signals, the laws
only cover broadcasting.
First Aid - this is a biggie and for now I'll only
list a few items of choice that I keep in my personal first aid kit. One should
have multiple First Aid kits with varying contents. When making a First Aid kit
you should consider the widest possible circumstances. Anything could happen, a
broken toe, a torn ligament, a laceration, a joint dislocation.... the list
goes on and on. This is why everybody should be able to handle minor wounds
illnesses and emergencies (FIRST AID). And recognize when it's time to seek
help. A sprained ankle for example can be mended with just an ace wrap, but it
may be bad enough to require x-rays and splints. I personally have everything
one would need for any medical emergency short of severe organ damage,
Impalement, gun-shot, broken spine, or child birth.
My most basic First Aid kit
1x - 5 staple skin staplers
5x - large cloth band aids
3x - sealed packs of Neosporin (generic)
3x - Chloroscrub wipes
3x - mini vials of benzoin tincture
3x - 2x2 sterile gauze
2x - 4x4 sterile gauze
2x - 18 gauge 1" needles
2x - 3mm sealed vials of saline
1x - very large blunt sewing needle
1x - 2' ace wrap
2x - 1' stretch blue rubber tourniquet
2x - petroleum jelly
3x - alcohol swabs
3x - 1/8th" steri-strip
3x - 1/4th" steri-strip
3x - 1/2" steri-strips
2x - large tongue depressors
mini chap stick
Sterile Suture Scissors
Tweezers
Tools! - When a job needs done it makes a world
of difference to have the right tools. Here is an example of some
tools I keep that have proven their value.
Scissors - A good high quality pair of scissors is a wonderful thing to have. I have surgical stainless steel scissors that I keep in my First-Aid kit.
Pry Bar/ Crow Bar - A great weapon that also seems to work very well for prying open doors, crates, fences and windows.
Bolt Cutters - I once had a bike stolen from me.
Luckily I found it one day changed it too a tree with
someone else's lock. A unique bike I knew at sight to be mine. It sat
there long enough for me to find the hardware section of the large store
nearby and purchase some bolt cutters. I cut the lock and left it at the tree
and rode the bike home. I'm sure that if somebody had seen me they would have
thought I'd just stolen the bike. But I stole it back; two wrongs CAN make a right.
Generally I only use bolt cutters when traveling through a gate the some fool
abandoned after forgetting to remove the chains and the pad lock and the
"no trespassing" signs. But there have been times when I've
needed to cut the lock on something or other and these are just about the only
hand tools that can do the job.
Screw Drivers - A collection of small to
large Phillips head and flat head screw drivers.
Wire cutters/ Strippers - At some point you may want to rewire
something, anything, and you really don't want to strip wire with your teeth.
Plumbers Wrench - A large and very adjustable wrench can
add a lot of force to your grip.
Hack Saw - again being able to fix or modify your
tools is sometimes essential. I once sold a shotgun to a friend who heard my
complaint that the barrel was too long for my liking and he told me he planned
to cut the barrel "shorter". I told him not to tell me about it and that as far
as I know a shotgun cannot be shorter than sixteen inches, But I'm really not
sure. But that does mean he could have cut the barrel down by twelve inches
before it was illegal. I don't know the laws on this and I do
not recommend modifying any firearms. But I have used my hacksaw for
more constructive purposes like cutting rusted bolts from a bumper.
Car Jack (handy man jack, Bottle jack) - This is the sort of thing that every
underground bunker should have near an entrance. A good jack can lift far more
weight than any person and if trapped by rubble behind a door or hatch, a jack
can be used to pry an opening. Any good subterranean bomb shelter
should have one installed at the entrance tunnel to lift off the hatch and
anything than may have fallen on top of it. I've used jacks to pry very large
boulders off cliff faces (something I discourage anyone from doing) to expose a
mineral deposit at the base of the boulder in the cliff face. Afterwards
it occurred to me that a similar method could be effective for
dropping large boulders onto a roadway to block access or to ambush or trap
vehicles below. I suppose a car jack could also come in handy for changing
blown tires and doing auto repairs.
Needle nose vice grips - A good pair of pliers can be very
useful, especially if those pliers can attach themselves and
provide a force without your hands.
Tin Snips - in many places seemingly remote I often
find random bits of sheet metal or tin cans left behind after decades of
abandonment. Having a good pair of tin snips allows you to modify sheet metal
and other metal things into useful items like wood stoves and rooftops.
Small Vice - I mean very small. Mainly just to use as
something stable to hold things that are being welded, cut, hammered, soldered,
glued or whatever.
Lazer Bore sighter - This is not a very cheap item to keep
with your gun cleaning and maintenance supplies. But as ammo becomes
more and more scarce accuracy becomes more important. Being able
to accurately place a shot is essential. A laser bore-sighter works very
well with guns that cannot be sighted through the barrel.
Metal File - Most often I use a file on
my ax before and after use to keep a keen edge. But a metal file is
good for modifying fixing and sharpening metal tools.
Large Ax - Estwig makes a
great ax that has lasted for me over twenty years. I
highly recommend an Estwig brand ax.
Gun Cleaning kit - In general a gun cleaning kit should
include many different sizes of wire brushes and tools used
to maintain any guns you have. In mine I have a 'bore snake' for each
barrel size and a 1oz bottle of gun oil, as well as various allen wrenches and
flat heads that fit my weapons.
Long Handle shovel - A spade shaped head is best
for digging but the long thin trenching shovel used by the forest service fire
fighters works great.
Animal Dressing tools - Dressing any large game can be tricky
especially when done without proper tools.
Whet Stone - a must have item for long term use. I
keep a large stone with a very fine grain on one side and a medium grain on the
other. And I keep a very small medium grain stone.
Watch (analog) - I don't waste my money on expensive
fancy multi-function watches. I've always been the sort of person who will
eventually destroy a watch. So I buy cheap ones only. I have one cheep watch
that I bought for $20 at costco that has lasted almost fifteen years. It's
beaten to hell, scratched so bad the plastic face would have long ago shattered
to bits if it were glass. I like the analog watches mostly because the face can
be used as a compass.
Baby Wipes - I keep these in the car. They are great
for cleaning up dirty hands and faces. Sometimes you might need to check your
oil or radiator fluid or do something that get's you a little dirty. Baby wipes
are great because they come moist and soapy. I try to have the ones that
are unscented.
Tyvek sheets - This is something I learned about
through backpacking. Tyvek is a strong durable material that is breathable
(allowing air flow) but water resistant (not quite water proof). I use sheets
of tyvek for my ground sheet beneath my tent to help protect it from damage and
extend its life. Also when sleeping beneath a tarp or fly I use it as a ground
sheet to add a barrier between me and the dirt.
Shower Curtain (vinyl) - These are very cheap, costing less than $3 for a good quality and maybe $1 for ones of lesser quality. They are a strong water barrier and
I often use one as a ground cloth. I also keep one in the car emergency kit as a means to collect water an provide rain protection.
Shower Curtain (vinyl) - These are very cheap, costing less than $3 for a good quality and maybe $1 for ones of lesser quality. They are a strong water barrier and
Cache tubes
Cache tube - Cache tubes are very useful for storing
items that need to be hidden and stored in the ground. They can also be used to
store fragile items like fishing poles arrows and bows. I use a 10"x4'
Black PCV, cut it in thirds, glue one end cap to all of them, then glue a screw
cap and fitting to the other. I fill one with two gallons of mineral oil, one
with two gallons of mineral spirits. I use the spirits to strip my rifle
barrels and the mineral oil to cure them. After putting a gun barrel into one I
screw the cap closed and stand the tube in front of the heater. This gradually
heats the fluid and the metal causing the metal to expand. The expanding metal
excretes oils, rust and impurities, as it's cracks and imperfections are
squeezed closed. As the metal cools again it pulls the solvent into these now
expanding cracks. This process of heating and cooling, expanding and
contracting, caused the metal to leech out impurities Being submerged in
a zero oxygen fluid prevents further damage. Eventually I pull the rifle
barrels out from the tube of mineral spirits and wipe it dry with a clean towel
and let it warm in front of the heater until all the spirits have evaporated.
Then I submerge the barrel in the tube of mineral oil. And allow it to sit in
front of the heater for more heating-cooling cycles. Then the metal picks up
the mineral oil and seals its imperfections with simple high quality oil that
will protect your gun. Then I remove the barrel and wipe the oil off and clean
it well, then coat it with gun oil. This is the most passive way I can think of
to clean a rifle. These cache tubes can also be used to stash Items in hidden
locations, thus the name cache tube. The problem with this is the chance people
or of dogs finding these, mostly people using metal detectors. This is why you
want to taint the area with junk metals. Walk around with a box of nails or an
old rusted bucket of bolts. Toss them all over the area you plan
to bury your caches. Try to include things like brass bullet cases,
Iron nails, staples, bolts, pennies, bit's of tin, metal filings... anything
small cheap old and metal. And choose a location with a lot of old metal
already widely available like old junk car lots and burn piles in the country.
The point is to pollute the area with so much trash metal that nobody wants to
search the area with a metal detector, and nobody would waste their time to dig
up iron or steel. Since a gun barrel is steel it will not register as anything
of value like gold or silver. Plant an Iron spade fence post in the ground
marking the place where your cache is buried. On this post loosely
wrap some wire around it and string it around the area. This will make it
appear to be only an old part of an electric fence. Anything deeper than five
feet will keep a constant temperature so humidity is the only problem. This is
why you should seal the tube with plumbers tape. You can use a vacuum sealer on
everything you store in the tube, as one should do with ammunition and food. I
just use oil for my weapons, and desiccant silica jell packs
for everything else.
My sleep system
Fleece Blanket - Fleece is very light weight, can be
ringed-out if wet, dries very quickly, and remains a good insulation layer even
when damp or wet. One should have a blanket large enough to cover two people or
to fold over and double the insulation for a singer person. There should also
be enough blankets for everyone in your party to have their own.
Sleeping Bag - Absolutely on the top for importance
(next to pack and shoes). This is another item I see totally absent from so
many 'bug-out-bags' shown or listed on-line. I just can't understand how these
people think they could survive sleeping on the cold ground (in any season)
maybe relying solely on a large camp fire for warmth (a very stupid idea that
could lead raiders to your camp, start a massive forest fire, and burn up all
your fuel). Just use a sleeping bag! I use a Canadian goose down mummy bad. A bit expensive but it compacts to about the size of a football, is rated for zero degrees. Because I tend to use my sleeping bag as a blanket I generally buy one that is one to two sizes 'too large'.
Sleeping Pad - After a single night on the hard cold ground, everyone will wish they had anything softer and warmer. A simple ground pad can be the difference between sleep and misery. I like the Therma-rest z-lite folding sleeping pad. I use one that is slightly longer than what I need so I can fold up the excess and use it as a pillow. I keep mine strapped to the outside of my pack for quick and easy access so I can have a comfortable seat without unpacking my bag. And I can fold it back up strap it on an leave in seconds.
WOOL! wool, wool, wool... for the backpacker.
I am in the process of writing a book on wool so I will mention a few things here as highlight from that book.
WOOL! wool, wool, wool... - wool blanket? wool gloves, wool socks, wool hat, wool shirt, wool thermal under wear... I'll go on and on over how great wool is. Its simple, wool has evolved to be durable, it sheds dirt and grime, odor resistant, flame resistant, water resistant, UV resistant and highly insulative. As far a material sciences have gone, they still cannot match the greatness of wool. With the increasing price and eventual loss of crude oil as a base material I'd be surprised to see wool NOT make a grand comeback. Wool retains much of its insulative properties even when wet, unlike nearly all synthetic materials. It can absorb over 25% of its weight in water before it feels wet. Wet socks? Wet shirt? Wet undies? no problem, If fully saturated, one can just ring out the item and bam!, mostly clean and mostly dry and still warm. The only potential drawbacks to wool are that it does not compact very well so large bulky items will always be large and bulky, and there is a little bug called a wool moth that likes to eat the stuff... other than that, it is a natural and renewable resource that I highly encourage for all uses. My choice is of course is merino wool of the finest quality. Generally I choose a black color as it seems to be cheaper and lucky for me it better absorbs heat from the sun. Wool does not need to be washed the way cotton or synthetics do. In fact, the best way to wash wool is to never wash it. Rather fill a tub with clean water no soap or detergents and submerge your wool in the water. Let it sit long enough to saturate the fibers and gently agitate the wool under water. Never rub the wool on itself or against any surfaces. Lightly squeeze out any excess water and stretch then wool out over a table or other flat surface. let it sit out and air dry. The water will pull out much of the lanolin and other oils that the wool naturally has within it and collected from your skin. These oils will turn the water a light tinge of brownish yellow. This is normal and the water can be discarded with no worries of toxicity to the environment. The water may smell of lanolin and some people may have allergic reactions to it. Lanolin is a perfectly safe and natural wax-like substance secreted by wool producing animals. It is the oils found in wool that attracts wool eating moths and insects. To prevent wool eating insects from destroying your wool mothballs are needed.
WOOL! wool, wool, wool... - wool blanket? wool gloves, wool socks, wool hat, wool shirt, wool thermal under wear... I'll go on and on over how great wool is. Its simple, wool has evolved to be durable, it sheds dirt and grime, odor resistant, flame resistant, water resistant, UV resistant and highly insulative. As far a material sciences have gone, they still cannot match the greatness of wool. With the increasing price and eventual loss of crude oil as a base material I'd be surprised to see wool NOT make a grand comeback. Wool retains much of its insulative properties even when wet, unlike nearly all synthetic materials. It can absorb over 25% of its weight in water before it feels wet. Wet socks? Wet shirt? Wet undies? no problem, If fully saturated, one can just ring out the item and bam!, mostly clean and mostly dry and still warm. The only potential drawbacks to wool are that it does not compact very well so large bulky items will always be large and bulky, and there is a little bug called a wool moth that likes to eat the stuff... other than that, it is a natural and renewable resource that I highly encourage for all uses. My choice is of course is merino wool of the finest quality. Generally I choose a black color as it seems to be cheaper and lucky for me it better absorbs heat from the sun. Wool does not need to be washed the way cotton or synthetics do. In fact, the best way to wash wool is to never wash it. Rather fill a tub with clean water no soap or detergents and submerge your wool in the water. Let it sit long enough to saturate the fibers and gently agitate the wool under water. Never rub the wool on itself or against any surfaces. Lightly squeeze out any excess water and stretch then wool out over a table or other flat surface. let it sit out and air dry. The water will pull out much of the lanolin and other oils that the wool naturally has within it and collected from your skin. These oils will turn the water a light tinge of brownish yellow. This is normal and the water can be discarded with no worries of toxicity to the environment. The water may smell of lanolin and some people may have allergic reactions to it. Lanolin is a perfectly safe and natural wax-like substance secreted by wool producing animals. It is the oils found in wool that attracts wool eating moths and insects. To prevent wool eating insects from destroying your wool mothballs are needed.
Wool Socks - Socks are essential. Not only as
insulation but they prevent blisters and wear from shoes and by absorbing
moisture and helping to wick it away socks help prevent other foot problems
like athletes foot. Keep at least five pairs as I may need to change my socks
during the day and can have spares until I can wash them out. Because wool sheds dirt and salts you can wear wool socks many times without "washing" them.
Wool Beanie - even in the summer I might wear one at
night.
Wool Long Underwear, bottoms and tops - I keep a set of long underwear in my bag
even in summer and use them as pajamas when I sleep.
Wool Gloves - I keep a pair of G.I. surplus fingerless
gloves in every pack I have. The reason is simple, cold hands are painful and
can become useless. They are relatively cheap and easy to find, so these also
fall into that category of items that are useful and cheap but hard to make.
Wool Balaclava - this is something I will wear at night
when sleeping to help keep my head from freezing as it pokes out the top of my
sleeping bag.
Wool Blanket - What can I say, it's a blanket. The G.I.
army surplus wool blankets weigh about four pounds, a little too heavy for my
taste given I'm already carrying a sleeping bag. But I still consider this to
be a great addition to any survival gear. It can be used as padding and
insulation beneath you as well as a blanket on top. And you should also keep
one in the car.
survival and a damn big knife
Kukri - A simple and elegant weapon can serve as
a machete or a blade. I recommend it over a machete or a hatchet because of its
weight and size. There are many manufacturers of every quality possible. Pick
one that you like, is made of a good steel and has a full handle tang. The
Smith & Wesson Kikris' are my favorite.
Katana, Wakisashi, Ninjato, Gladius - Yes, a sword. A REAL one, NOT one of
those cheep home-shopping-network "display only" garbage blades. But a REAL and
FUNCTIONAL sword. There are reviews across the web and many forums that
mentions this. A decent site for reviews on functional swords can be found at the "sword-buyers-guide". It's not easy to find a good sword.
This is because most people don't want to spend the money, but also because
most people never actually use them and when they finally do, or somebody else
uses it, the cheap trash just breaks or deforms. Then your cheap decoration is
just trash and doesn't even make a very good decoration. Generally the reason a good
sword is so expensive is because the steel is worked in a very different
process than a knife. The entire process is very labor intensive and costly
and in general, and is rarely done entirely by machines. This means a good sword is a unique
hand crafted weapon. Not willing to spend thousands of dollars on a sword,
My sword of choice is the Cheness Cutlery "OniYuri". It's not as
indestructible as we'd all want, but it's really quite durable and very strong. It
sells for $200 - $250. Another good option for a sword is the roman style or
'Galdius' sword. I don't own one but having handled them I can attest to their
strength. Again, do research. I also really like the Cold-Steel long handled
Machete. These come in a few different blade shapes, mine is the katana/tanto
style. They sell for $20 - $30 and are very much worth the price. In fact, Cold Steel could double the price and I'd still say they're worth the money. When I got
mine I chopped down a tree that was about three feet in diameter then chopped
off all the branches some thicker than a foot, then I chopped a cinder-block
into pebbles. I really love this machete. The best thing about a sword
is that they require no ammunition and are very quiet. If stealth is important
a gun is the last thing you want to use and a sword is just as deadly. Granted
this is in the zombocalypse category of weapons, meaning they're not all that
useful on a daily basis, but remember when the lights go out forever,
ammunition is no longer being manufactured and good luck making your own gun
powder brass and bullets! In the long run, a sword is a better weapon than a
gun.
Within the small area of a household, a sword can be much more effective than a gun. This is because the attack range is so small (Any room is generally smaller than three or four square meters). The time it take to swing a sword is more or less equal to time it takes to draw a gun and mark your target. Also, the fact that a bullet only travels in a straight line from the gun across the room, while a sword swipe covers a much broader area means that if a gun meets a sword within a small room, the draw is more or less equal, but the chances of the bullet missing its target is much greater than the swords chance of a miss.
Within the small area of a household, a sword can be much more effective than a gun. This is because the attack range is so small (Any room is generally smaller than three or four square meters). The time it take to swing a sword is more or less equal to time it takes to draw a gun and mark your target. Also, the fact that a bullet only travels in a straight line from the gun across the room, while a sword swipe covers a much broader area means that if a gun meets a sword within a small room, the draw is more or less equal, but the chances of the bullet missing its target is much greater than the swords chance of a miss.
survival and footwear
Footwear - Shoes, Boots, Sandals... Nothing beats a
good sturdy pair of boots, that is unless you have to hike long and fast, then
a standard pair of train running shoes is best. But around the house or camp
sandals are great. When I'm hiking I don't usually wear boots unless I plan on
doing a ton of off trial bushwhacking or I plan on being in and out of
sand mud, snow, or talus. But for sticking to trails I like trail runners. As
far as prepping goes it's a good idea to have a few extra pairs of shoes at
your house. If SHTF and shoes are no longer being manufactured or shipped into
your area they will become a very important commodity and are very
difficult to make on your own. Generally when I buy a pair of shoes I just buy
two pairs of whatever kind I choose and wear out one then the other.
survival and information
Maps - This is one of those 'Duh!' items that
frequently get passed over. Everyone should have a collection of paper maps
preferably rolled up in a water proof tube. In a Bug-Out situation many routes
may be blocked for any number of reasons, Military or FEMA checkpoints,
quarantine zones, natural barriers such as landslides, construction/
destruction zones, fallen structures...etcetera... so having alternative exits
and routes is a must. A good map of the local area and surrounding country is
necessary. As familiar as one may be with the city or town they live in one may
not be so familiar with neighboring towns or country. Maps that everybody
should have include Road maps, Recreational maps and USGS topo maps of the surrounding area and National Forest
Service maps of all National forests areas around your state.
USB mini Flash thumb drive 16-32 Gb - It may seem unimportant to retain
various sorts of data and computer components in an emergency situation.
However in the modern age we cannot tell when or where electricity and
information technology will be available. With a thumb-drive of decent size one
can retain a virtual library of data in a very small and highly portable
device. A good thumb-drive can survive submersion in water and a wide range of
temperatures making them a very stable form of information storage. Data
ranging from family photos to financial information, maps, books, and even
programs can be carried in your pocket and retrieved when a functional computer
is available. Newer thumb-drives have proven themselves to be very durable and
long lasting. I've unknowingly put one through a washing mashing and clothes
dryer multiple times without a single problem.
Books - After a mini USB thumb drive
I'd recommend some books. Most survivalist minded people will have a
few survival books in their library or books collection. The SAS manual, the
military FM on survival, and maybe a few others. I also recommend a book on
animal tracks and signs, the one by Mark Elbroch is great. A book on dressing
and butchering animals. A 'Pocket Ref' book later editions. And a few
fiction or story books. The main reason to have a few non-survival related
books is to allow for some measure of entertainment and pleasure. In a
survival situation there may be long periods of waiting with not much work to
do and a restless mind. Having a good book is a great way to wind down and stay
occupied. Books can also provide a measure of escapism when in a long
term stressful situation. If one is serious about building a useful library,
I'd recommend the Audubon Field Guides as a start.
A brief entry on firearms
This is not a complete discussion on firearms. This is entirely opinion and does not reflect my opinions on any firearms not mentioned.
Ruger 10/22 Take Down riffle + .22 LR ammo - Many .22 rifle have been considered practice riffles or kids riffles, but many people who take weapons seriously have been impressed with the Ruger 10/22 line of riffles. The Take Down is the standard Ruger 10/22 with one important innovation. It can be 'broken' in half for easy carry and storage. Small and lightweight it is perfect for simple bug-out and survival. With a few Ruger BX 25 magazines one can easily shoot enough lead at a target to secure a meal or defend against thugs and thieves.
update: I have recently discovered the lovely Smith & Wesson M&P 40 pistol. And I must admit, the M&P is a great weapon.
Ruger 10/22 Take Down riffle + .22 LR ammo - Many .22 rifle have been considered practice riffles or kids riffles, but many people who take weapons seriously have been impressed with the Ruger 10/22 line of riffles. The Take Down is the standard Ruger 10/22 with one important innovation. It can be 'broken' in half for easy carry and storage. Small and lightweight it is perfect for simple bug-out and survival. With a few Ruger BX 25 magazines one can easily shoot enough lead at a target to secure a meal or defend against thugs and thieves.
Henry Arms Survival Rifle model A7 + .22
LR ammo - This
little rifle is the quintessential survival rifle. The lower trigger assembly,
the magazine, and the barrel can all be broken down and stored in the stock of
the gun giving it a length of 16.5" stored or 38" assembled the
entire rifle weighs 2.25 pounds. The standard magazine holds ten rounds. They
generally run between $200 and $250 so they are quite cheap as far as a good
firearm goes. These are great little rifles but can be very hard to come by, If
by chance you see one for sale BUY IT because when it matters most, these guns
are worth their weight in gold.
Springfield Armory XD 9mm subcompact + 9mm
JHP ammo - My main reason for this pistol over
another model is that it is fairly popular and thus quite easy to find extra
magazines or replacement parts. Secondly, it has proven itself to be very reliable and durable. My
standard model comes with a single thirteen round magazine and one sixteen
round magazine with grip extension. I've added four full sized sixteen round
magazines to my armory carried in a single 'molle' magazine pouch. This gives
me a carrying capacity of 93 rounds. The sole purpose of this weapon is
personal defense against raiders/ hijacker/ pirates/ thugs/ scavengers... thus I use JHP (jacketed hallow points) designed to maximize tissue damage
by hydro-static shock and destroy bruise and pulverize a targets
internal organs assuring maximum lethality while retaining a comfortable kick.
Ruger 10/45 mark II .22LR - This is just a great little pistol. Take
down can be a little complicated but once you learn it's quarks it's really no
problem. Accuracy is amazing and shooting .22 LR rounds makes it perfect for
practice. In dire situations I wouldn't fret to have this as my only firearm. I
would have no problem taking down small mammals and birds with this pistol.
Ammunition - Even if you do not carry a weapon or
keep one in your bug-out/ survival gear, A few boxes of ammunition of various
sorts could prove useful. Try to keep at least a hundred rounds of each, and
for the smaller calibers like .22 LR try to keep at least a thousand rounds on
hand. Also try to store some of the more commonly used calibers and shells such
as .22LR, .223, 9mm, .40, .45, 12 gauge buck shot and bird shot, 16 gauge buck
shot... These can all be used for barter and anybody with a weapon WILL want
them. Ammunition will last for a very long time if stored in a dry place and not moved. One thing to realize when storing ammunition is how it can go bad. One consideration is vibrations. As ammunition is subjected to vibrations each grain of powder will rub on adjacent grains causing them to erode each other into finer particles. This will alter and maybe even destroy the ignition properties of the gun powder. As far as oxidation, most ammunition will store with little complications. humidity is the enemy of all metals, and brass is no exception. The green patina of brass is formed by the oxidation of copper within the alloy. This green oxidation can take on a fuzzy moldy texture and cause jams and 'stove-pipe' ejection problems. The best way to avoid this is to limit humidity and water exposure, and make sure your brass is clean before loading. I've
even fired bullets that were buried in sand oil and mud for thirty years with
no problem (properly cleaned before put into the gun of course).
9mm ammunition side note: My caliber of choice is in 9mm Luger because
it is a lethal round, it's very common among police forces and military, about
equally common as .40 caliber ammunition. It is a standard round for NATO
forces, and is therefore available wherever there is a police force. And
contrary to what many people (who have never actually shot a person) will say, It does
pack a punch, especially Hollow Points. Sure the slug itself is smaller and
lighter than a .40 or .45 and has slightly less gun powder behind it. But the recoil is lower allowing for faster target acquisition and
quicker shots on target. And at 300-500 foot-pounds a 9mm slug is plenty
powerful. And in a situation where I may be forced to fire shots at a person,
I'd rather be able to fire lots of well placed shots than fewer slightly more
powerful ones. So, all in all, I carry a 9mm for several reasons, one is
stopping power, two is accuracy and three I simply do not like the massive kick
from a larger caliber. And accuracy is more important than power.
.22 Long Rifle ammunition side note: There is a proverb that goes something
like this; "If you wish you kill an army you need one yourself, all
soldiers equipped with swords and shields and spears and riding horses. But if
you wish to kill just one or even yourself, all you need is a pin prick."
.22LR is a great little pin prick. This is just a wonderful little round; it's
very cheap and small enough that a single person can carry thousands of rounds.
I've carried just over five hundred rounds in a single sock. Try to carry five
hundred rounds of 7.62x39 and you'll quickly realize all your pack weight is
all bullets and nothing else. Also being shot with any high velocity chunk of
hot lead, even from a .22 hurts like hell and while a .22 round may not drop/
stop a person or an animal instantly it can kill all the same. This is a choice
round for anything dog size or smaller which in a survival situation includes
birds and mammals all being edible. And again, accuracy is more important than
power. A decent shot with a .22 can kill a moose which if you've never seen one
are huge animals.
Shotgun (home defense note)- all over the
web there is a debate on the perfect weapon for home defense. It's almost a
landslide in favor of the shotgun. The reason for this may require a little
explanation. A shotgun blast has a feature that bullets do not, a spread. As
the blast of pellets or shot travels through the air the individual
particles separate into a wider area. Over the span of a few yards a
single shotgun blast can expand from less than an inch to over six inches. This
increases the target zone. So the farther away the target the fewer pellets or
shot make contact but the wider the range of attack. Also shotguns have a
variety of potential shells available. For home defense it
is recommended that one use bird shot. This is because there is a
wider dispersal range and the shot pellets are not massive enough to travel
through objects like furniture walls and targets, this
minimizes collateral damage. Also when a target (in this case a human enemy)
there is a noticeable punch when hit with a shotgun. In contrast to a
bullet, which may cleanly puncture through the body of a target, a shotgun may
kick back the target allowing confirmation of a hit. The downside to using a
shotgun for home defense is that they are fairly long and unwieldy. My
preferred weapon for home defense is a pistol, however one should remember that
a bullet can travel through a target and the wall behind them and into the home
of a neighbor, thus I use hollow points which are more likely to
flatten and catch in walls and targets.
Essential Item... the pack
Bags and packs - A quality backpack is essential for my every-day-carry items minus keys, wallet, phone, lighter (which should almost always be carried on your person). But for backpacking I need something both lighter and larger than the Currier bag I use on a daily basis. As far a brand names, Deuter and Osprey at at the top of my list. Equivalent quality and price these two brands are definitely worth their hype. I currently use Osprey backpacks for almost everything so I write this with Osprey pack in mind. I fully support their business practices and costumer service is rated very highly, and they guarantee their bags for life. My choice pack is of the Osprey Exos models. For a seven day summer trip expecting night time temperatures of no less than forty degrees Fahrenheit I use a 75 liter pack. I tend to cram as much as I can into a bag and after adjusting for bulges and lumps I've found this to be a little small but ideal and giving enough to add a few extras. I keep nearly all of my essential gear stored in my bag at all times. All my essential equipment as well as a single pair of wool socks, a schmag, an orange bandanna, a thin wool balaclava, finger-less wool GI gloves, and a wool beanie, and moccasins are stored in my pack. The few items I do NOT keep stored in my pack are food and sleeping bag (see sleeping bag). In a bug-out situation I would only need to add food, pants (which I'm usually wearing, long underwear, water and my sleeping bag. There is some concern over the durability of the material used in a bug-out-bag but after many weeks and hundreds of miles in the bush living out of my backpack I've learned to both take care of my gear and trust in the quality of the materials. Some choose packs of seemingly more durable materials such as canvas or leather, but in my years of experience, it is much easier to patch a few tears in a nylon/polyester ultra-light pack than to carry the extra weight of one made from other materials. My largest aversion to using a canvas pack is the inevitable wear that all packs suffer and the irreparable nature of canvas. Also, canvas soaks up water like a sponge and can become much more heavy than it already is. While a nylon bag can be patched with ease and maybe by cannibalizing a nylon jacket or other item, a canvas bag is much more difficult to repair with only simple patching tools.
Considerations when choosing a new backpack: size (a minimum of 60 liters for anything "outdoors"). Zippers, or rather the minimal use of zippers. As these are one of the things that will inevitably fail over time, use and pressure, I try to avoid zippers all-to-gather. Draw-ties are far more reliable than zippers and can be repaired or replaced with minimal effort. Loops and external attachment points; I like to keep a smooth pack free of anything swinging, dangling, hanging, and swaying. But sometimes it's good to have places to attach frequently used items like a camera. I've found that the cinch-down points found all around most packs are excellent places to improvise repairs from broken straps clips and buttons. Mesh and netting; essential, super light, quick drying, and (slightly) stretchable, mesh pockets backing and straps can save impressively on weight. Thick strong belt clip; the last thing you cant to do is carry all your packs weight on your shoulders and if your belt clip breaks, that's exactly what you will be doing. That is the perfect recipe for misery.
Animals and human survival
Animals and human survival - From the bumble bee that pollinates our food crops to the worms that till the soil and the chickens that feed us, animals are essential to human survival.
On Dogs - I have to mention dogs briefly in relation to survival and human well-being. One should always have at least one dog living within the home. As far as domestication, no other animal can compare. A large dog raised as a loving and loyal family member can save your life. There are numerous stories and legends of the intelligence, bravery, loyalty and self sacrifice of these animals. Few other beings care more about your security and well being than a loved dog. In the book 'The Truth About Self Protection' Massad Ayoob distinguishes differences between "Watchdogs", "Attack dogs", "Protection Dogs", and "Guard Dogs." But simply having an animal with better hearing and acute alertness can mean the difference between a victim and safety. A large dog can provide direct and immediate physical protection. A large or small dog at the very least can act as an adequate and tireless alarm system. A simply and reliable system that can deter burglary or assault simply through barking. Few homes with a large dog are ever burglarized. In the book "Secrets of a Superthief" John MacLean reports that of 300 prison inmates interviewed 65% said they are scared away by dogs. But studies suggest that some 90% of apprehended burglars choose houses without dogs. Whatever the breed, basic training is essential. The overall costs of keeping a dog is nothing compared to the benefits. Many studies have shown that merely having a dog can extend lifespan and increase mental health.
One should always have at least a months worth of dog food stored. If the dire situations arise you do not need to be forced into sharing your own food reserves with a dog. And if worst comes you too can survive on your dogs foods, and you may even, as sad as it may seem, eat your dog. But a living healthy dog is better than no dog.
Bees - Bees are by far the single most important animals on earth for human survival. Nearly all food crops are angiosperms meaning they produce flowers, and nearly all require insect pollination to produce seed and fruit. While there are many animals that act as pollinators for crops none are as important as the bee. In addition to pollinating our food crops bees provide an abundance of resources that are otherwise very rare and difficult to acquire. While Honey is not made exclusively by bees (there are other insects that produce honey) it is their most desirable product. Honey is a complex mixture of fructose, sucrose, maltose, vitamins, enzymes, minerals, pollen, ash, dust, and inert microorganisms. Beeswax is another major and important product of the bee. Produced by glands on the inside of the body, beeswax is composed of long-chained alcohols and fatty acid esters.
Worms - worms are probably the most abundant animals on earth. From ice nematodes to the giant tube worms of the deep ocean, they live in almost all possible environments. My main focus is on the earth worm (lumbricus terrestris). These worms are amazing in their ability to digest organic materials to generate soil. They possess enzymes and microflora that allow them to digest the most diverse array of organic material possible. Earth worms can digest complex proteins cellulose sugars...
Below is a list of animals that I plan to write on as extensions to this entry.
Insects (general beneficial) -
Insects (general pest) -
Horses -
Llamas and Alpacas -
Pigs and boars -
Sheep and Goats -
Fish and other aquatic animals (shrimp, crabs...)-
Rabbits -
Chickens -
Quail -
Ducks and Geese-
Deer and Elk-
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